From Valentino’s suspended realities to Balmain’s TikTok-centric boat show, the past couple of weeks have given us a strong taste of what the new virtual fashion show world will look like. But Dior’s Cruise 2021 presentation came with a nostalgic whiff for our old life of actual gatherings in-person.
At first glance, the show staged in Puglia at the Piazza del Duomo in Lecce, could be mistaken as archival Dior footage from the extreme Before Times. There were the usual models walking a runway, an elaborate illuminated set, and a full orchestra. Backstage, a throng of beauty editors were being advised on the looks created by acclaimed Dior makeup artist, Peter Philips. Everything felt as it should be, or as it had been several months earlier, except this time, there was no live audience, and the traditional editor-and-artist interview that once happened in person was done via Zoom.
On set in Puglia, Philips explained that the backstage experience was far from the usual frantic model/artist hustle-and-bustle and more straight out of the Dr. Fauci playbook: “This COVID-19 situation doesn’t change the makeup looks that we do, but it does change the mechanisms of how we apply,” Philips explained. “It’s always important to be clean and now, in this situation, we push it to the extreme. We get the face masks, we get the shields, and I found a way with 47 models, so that each model has their own powder, powder brush, and tools.”
The toughest hurdle for Philips and his team, was making last minute touch-ups minutes before the show began. “In the backstage, it’s okay because each model goes to each makeup artist, but the touch-ups are complicated,” says Philips. Once Philips knew the order in which models would walk down the runway, he divided the models in sets of ten, assigning two makeup artists to each group. “So I have a plate, with ten or eleven cups, and each cup with a name and all the products of each model,” says Philips. “One assistant carries the plate and the other assistant touches up.” Not a single tool was shared by any of the models. “It takes a bit of organization, but it worked well with this,” he says. “Almost like a military operation.”
The resulting look was timeless, effortless beauty fit for a low-maintenance summer. “It’s about a strong, confident woman who looks radiant without being blinding,” Philips explained. “It’s about well hydrated skin and using the right products to really enhance the natural glow, a look that fits every woman.” One that—most crucially—can easily be recreated while you’re stuck on Zooms at home.
SKIN: Philips prepped first with Capture Totale C.E.L.L. Energy Super Potent Serum and Capture Totale C.E.L.L. Energy Face Cream Routine. “It helps you to set your foundation,” he says. Next, he used The Dior Backstage Face and Body Foundation and Dior Skin Correct.
EYES: Philips was all about a buildable look. “The mascara [The New Diorshow Iconic Overcurl in Black] is the perfect mascara for natural makeup and you can also do elaborate makeup as well,” he says. “The mascara coats each lash perfectly, and if you build it up for a very rich mascara, keep the separation for a nice fan of the mascara.”
LIPS: Philips used the Dior Lip Scrub and in the shade pink and Dior Lip Maximizer in the shade pink as well, to make it pop, in a subtle natural way.
See more of the Dior Cruise 2021 runway show here.
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